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TONY

WOOD

ITALIAN

WINE

Writer's pictureTony Wood

A visit to Fèlsina

Updated: Aug 19, 2018

I thought it was only correct and proper that my first review on Chianti Classico was from Fèlsina, the reason being that Rancia 2001 was the first Chianti I tasted that "rocked my world".


The estate has been in the same family since it was purchased by Domenico Poggiali in 1966 and consisted originally of 10 hectares. Sig.Poggiali’s son in law Giuseppe Mazzocolin devoted his time to the estate in the mid 1970's along with his consultant enologist Franco Bernabei.


Today 96 hectares of Fèlsina are under vine. The estate is now in the capable hands of Giovanni Poggiali, who has an innovative attitude to the protection of the terroir embracing biodynamic production with modern technologies.


In 1983 the estate released two wines:  Fontalloro, 100% Sangiovese in new barriques, using fruit from two very differing terroirs: rocky, calcareous soils in the north and fertile loam soils of the south.


The second, Rancia derives its name from the historic Rancia farmhouse, once a Bendictine monastery located between 400 and 420 metres has a south west exposure. The soil is composed of limestone-derived alberese and galestro marl.


Another area of the estate was initially considered to have huge potential but proved to be very difficult to plant, due to impossibly rocky soil and was abandoned. However in 1991 this plot was given a new beginning (with the help of dynamite) and was finally planted in 1993.

The first crop arrived in 1997, but only in 2006 was the first vintage bottled.


I refer to Colonia, now marketed as a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione which in my opinion is destined to have glorious future. The total production of Colonia 2015 is 3,000 bottles.


The total production of the Fèlsina estate is 600,000 bottles.


Fèlsina Spumante Brut Millesimato 2012

Made with 55% Sangiovese, 25% Pino Noir, 20% Chardonnay. This is a quality classic method spumante with bright acidity, citrus notes, honeydew melon, kiwi. It has a good mid palate and a clean fresh exit. Excellent as an aperitif.

2018-2025 | 91 Points


Fèlsina Castello di Farnetella Nero di Nubi 2008

100% Pinot Noir. Black berries, rose petals, leather. Savoury. Medium bodied. Clean fresh acidity.

2018-2028 | 92 Points


Fèlsina Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2013

Beguiling bouquet, dark cherry, liquorice, spices. Rich, deep. Needs a few more years bottle time.

2021-2036 | 93+ Points


Fèlsina Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2015

Rancia 2001 was my first purchase from this estate. Subsequent vintages continue to impress. Normally big, bold Sangiovese powerhouse that needs 5-8 years to soften before it starts to give up its secrets. Not the case in 2015: this has a softer, elegant, more approachable side. Plainly speaking, it could be the best Rancia yet.

2021-2040 | 95 Points


Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia 2013

This is a dynamite of a wine. This beauty offers prune, black fruit, tobacco and savoury notes structured but elegant. Less oak definition than previous offerings.

2020-2040 | 95 Points


Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia 2015

This is the best showing of this wine. The 2015 offers us the opportunity to engage with a rich, multi layered complex wine. Black berries, prunes, floral notes, liquorice, tones of cigar box. Seamless and balanced. A stunning wine which will give pleasure for many decades. Released March 2018. Do not miss this wine!

2020-2040 | 97+ Points


Please also see to my Chianti Classico tasting notes.



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