Two years had passed since I last visited the Palazzo Della Gran Guardia in Verona, and I was excited to return to one of my favourite cities in Italy with the added bonus of taking part in a two day extravaganza all about the glorious wines of this region, and in particular Amarone della Valpollicella.
A brief recap of the wines of this region and the rules governing their status are be found on my review in 2023 dated March 23rd:
The event started with an exceptional Masterclass, presented by my good friend and colleague J.C.Viens, Italian wine expert, and master storyteller. His subject: “Amarone Icon of Fine Dining in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024.” The purpose was to discover how many of the recognised best restaurants in the world had Valpollicella wines on their wine lists, and to pair it to a selected dish on their menu.
A few interesting words on the main grape varieties found in Valpolicella’s wines, on the lists the World’s 50 Best Restaurants:
Corvina and Corvinone: these grapes are highly compatible with appassimento, the tradition of putting grapes to lie and rest, or dry and shrivel. The Corvina grape is especially known for its high terroir sensitivity and is very adapt to a long drying process.
Oseleta is a rare autochthonous red wine grape variety that gives good structure and therefore great aging potential. Almost extinct after the phylloxera blight of the 19th and 20th centuries, Oseleta was rediscovered and replanted in small areas by wine producer Masi in the 1980’s and it is now permitted by Valpollicella DOC and Amarone DOCG rules.
Amarone was first documented in the 4th Century, although not known as Amarone at the time; its present name is believed to have been coined by Adelino Lucchese in 1936 who remarked “ this is not Amaro it is Amarone!” The first bottles marked Amarone were sold in 1953. Prior to that it was regarded as a sweet wine, Amaro or digestive.
During the Masterclass, photos of the dishes paired with wines were shown on a large screen.
This was followed by a tasting of the Amarone wines selected in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants explained by JC. This was a fascinating lecture, detailed, absorbing and beautifully presented.
Meroni
Il Velluto Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Riserva 2011
Ruby red in colour with purple undertones. Heady aromas of rose petal, plum, salty liquorice and distant balsamic notes, rich concentrated palate and tingling acidity. Blackberry, prune, fig and cherry fruit. Deep in textural structure, opens wide following mid palate. Secondary nuances of vanilla and plum. The acidity drives the energy and freshness found on the close.
Points 92 TW
Ca’ La Bionda
Ravazzol Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Riserva 2012
Ruby red in colour with pink undertones. Delicate aromatics of red cherry, redcurrant, liquorice, orange peel and cocoa. Complex layered minerality. On entry agile and vivacious. Muscular and dense. Floats on the palate. Great energy. Has a little warmth on the back end. Acidity is still alive and punchy.
Points 91 TW
Monte Dall’Ora
Stropa
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2013
Intense ruby red in colour. Dark blue florals: violet, bluebell with damp forest floor and blackcurrant account for the aromatic profile. Blackberry, blueberry, damson, dark plum, Mocha and orange peel. Saline infused energy. Tingling acidity lifts the palate. Linear. Savoury and earthy.
Points 92 TW
Zymè
Amarone della Valpollicella Classico DOCG 2013
Deep ruby red in colour with purple undertones. Dark blue blossom florals abound. Ripe warm black fruits. Mature plum and salty liquorice, Bing cherry, cranberry, pomegranate and dark chocolate. Rich and generous. Deep in texture and volume. Saturates the palate. The tannins are crunchy and chalky. Fennel pollen notes on the finish.
Points 94+ TW
Baglioni
Il Lussurioso Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2016
Dark ruby red in colour.Vertical aromas led by rhubarb, dark scented berry fruits, dark spice notes and liquorice. Blackberry, blackcurrant, spearmint, bitter dark chocolate and balsamic notes. On the palate, a concentrated black core of sweet scented fruit. Acidity is brisk and angular. Slight drying of the palate noted on the finish.
Points 91-93 TW
Tezza
Brolio delle Giare Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena Riserva DOCG 2016
Dark ruby red in colour. Heady florals of red rose petals, red and black berry fruits, blood orange, liquorice, plum, and dark chocolate. Agile and juicy on the palate. Minerality is complex. Overtones of balsam. Articulated close.
Points 93 TW
Quintarelli
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2017
Intense ruby red in colour. Aromas jump out of the glass, black ripe fruit, cherry liquor, pomegranate and mellow spice. On the palate, redcurrant, red cherry, bitter orange peel, tobacco, chocolate and warm crushed rock. So precise and poised. Vertical. Just bombards the palate with wave after wave of liquid pleasure.
Points 96 TW
Following the morning session, lunch in the stunning setting Teatro Filarmonico, was curated by 3 Star Michelin chef Giancarlo Perbellini, paired with exceptional wine choices.
Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2013
Tenuta Villa Bellini Class Amarone Centenarie DOCG 2016
Le Guaite di Noemi Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2012
Il Monte Caro Fogo Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2019
Villa Rinaldi Recioto della Valpolicella DOC Metodo Classico 1998
After lunch, a second Masterclass: “A Journey Through the Historic Vintages of Amarone” hosted by Andrea Lonardi MW, at one time chief operating officer of Bertani winery, founder member of Angelini Wine and Estate Group, and Vice President of the Consorzio Vini della Valpolicella.
The bullet points presentation was exceptionally interesting: 75 years of Amarone history and was presented in one hour.
The facts:
The main requirement in the past (1960 - 1990) was to find a sustainable market.
The above years followed by a commercial boom, the buzz words were : sell, sell, sell, and grow, grow, grow.
The most successful period of recognition and sales 1990-2015.
Prior to 2015 the classic Amarone style wines were austere at first, with a traditionally long life expectancy.
The vintage 2015 marks the beginning of a new Amarone style : warm and inviting, with elegance and finesse.
The challenges 2020-2030, are to diversify and rethink.
Reduce the volume of production.
Key changes and contemporary dynamism are required.
From sweet to dry, to totally dry to dry. Now some and some.
Remove Pergola to VSP (vertical shoot positioning), back to Pergola style.
Blend driven by Rondinella, now back to Covina and Corvinone, assisted by the reenergised Oseleta.
Better technical understanding, especially in the drying process. Reducing drying process time, from 120 days to 90 to 60. So as not to loose so much weight.
Move from natural to controlled drying process.
Cherry wood barrels to big oak casks, maybe cement will be the future step.
The beauty of Amarone lies in its diversity. No single style should dominate, like Champagne.
Andrea Lonardi’s further research suggestions:
Utilising altitude
Biodiversity in the grapes themselves
Finding of new styles
More about the winemaker and not the place
Key element; to produce ‘Fine Wine’ with longevity
Try to reduce residual sugar levels
The wines accompanying the Masterclass went back to 1950:
Fratelli Bolla Recioto Amarone Riserva del Nonno 1950
Montresor Recioto Amarone della Valpolicella 1969
Bertani Recioto della Valpolicella Amarone Classico Superiore 1975
Santa Sofia Recioto della Valpolicella Amarone Classico Superiore DOCG 1983
Cecilia Beretta Terre di Cariano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 1985
Mazzi Punta di Villa Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 1997
Bussola Vigneto Alto Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2007
Marion Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG Riserva 2010
That evening, a Gala dinner was held, where the press dined with the producers. I was honoured by the presence of the grand daughter of the first commercial producer of the famous house of Bolla: Annagrazia Bolla, author of the book: “I miei Bolla” (published in 2011) narrating the saga of her family’s dynasty
The following day we had a chance to taste and review the latest release of Amarone della Valpollicella 2020…
An important word of advice: although these wines are 5 years of age, many are not yet for sale.
Generally a 10 year old wine is considered ready for sale bur it is still very youthful. This does not apply to all of these wines.
Tasting Notes
Terre di Leone
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020
Pale ruby red in colour. Cherry syrup, liquorice, red rose petal with crushed stone minerality account for the aromatic profile. Red cherry, pomegranate, white pepper. Concentrated. Linear. Citrusy character. Blackcurrant and salty liquorice prevail on the close.
Points 90 TW
Valentina Cubi
Morar
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020
Medium ruby red in colour. Very little on the aromatic front, perhaps distant rose petal and iodine. Cherry, plum, cranberry, pepper, herb notes. On entry, prune nuances, tingling acidity, full of energy, tapers slightly to a medium length finish. Needs plenty of bottle age to fully express itself.
Points 90+ TW
Ca’ La Bionda
Ravazzol
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020
Bright ruby red in colour. Enticing aromas of ripe warm cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry, violet and bluebell florals. Bing cherry, dewberry, blood orange, salty liquorice and grilled herb notes. Warm on the palate, agile and silky. Fine grained tannins vie with poignant acidity. Complex layered minerality. Medium in texture. Tons of energy. Articulated close.
Points 95 +TW
Zýmē di Celestino Gaspari
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020
Medium ruby red in colour with bright pink undertones. Aromas of red blossom florals, fennel pollen, vanilla, black berry fruits and distant balsam. Dark cherry, mint, blackcurrant, damson, liquorice, black tea and black pepper. A fine mix of saline infused energy and ripe fruits surrounded by zesty acidity and silky tannins. Broad and long on the finish.
Points 93+ TW
Monte Del Frà
Tenuta Lenadi Mezzo
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020
Pale ruby red in colour with bright pink translucent highlights.
Aromas of baked fruit, plum, pear and lemon zest, distant cinnamon and clove.Bing cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry, liquorice and distant praline notes. On entry, brine nuances take control and hold the palate taut to the medium length finish.
Points 88 TW
Bolla
Le Origini
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOCG 2020
Medium ruby red in colour. Aromas of cherry floating in spirit, essence of citrus, salty liquorice and lime leaves. Warm entry showcasing ripe red cherry, plum, strawberry, blackcurrant and balsam notes. Muscular yet elegantly poised. Juicy and succulent. Fresh. Clean mouthfeel following finish.
Points 94 TW
La Dama
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020
Medium purple in colour. Aromas of black fruits, metallic earth nuances, orange peel, liquorice and violet florals. A mix of red and black berry fruit, dark chocolate, black pepper and cherry syrup. Mid weight. A touch angular following mid palate. Medium length on the close.
Points 89 TW
Marion
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020
Medium garnet red in colour with purple highlights. Dark blue florals, dark berry fruits, distant chocolate and crushed Mediterranean herbs.
Blackcurrant, blueberry, pomegranate, cherry blossom and white smoke. Fruit quality overhauls the brine notes, tingling acidity also helps with freshness and follow through. Well weighted. Layered. Classy and slightly exotic.
Points 93-95 TW
Vigneti di Ettore
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020
Intense ruby red in colour. Aromas of red cherry, rhubarb, cranberry and violet florals. Black cherry, dewberry, wild strawberry, liquorice, Mocha, dark chocolate, balsamic notes and distant dark spice. Saline nuances in evidence upon entry, tends to dry out the palate. Stringent acidity and tense tannins still in full play. Vibrant. Savoury. Earthy. Medium length on the close.
Points 91 TW
Ca’ Rugate
Punta 470
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020
Bright ruby red in colour. Aromas of cherry, orange peel, floral underbrush and distant mint. Redcurrant, boysenberry, crushed cherry in spirit, salty liquorice, distant sweet tobacco and damp leaf litter. Juicy. Agile. Persistent with a berry character. Long articulated close.
Points 94 TW
Sabaini
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020
Deep ruby red in colour. Heady aromatics of cassis, blueberry jam, caramel, prune and rose hip. Warm ripe fruits. Potent. Dense.Compact. Not a shy personality.
Points 89 TW
Massimago
Conte Gastone
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020
Intense ruby red in colour. Spring florals notes with violet and bluebell with distant lavender. Red and black berry fruits, salty liquorice, dark chocolate nuances. Warm on entry, just saturates the palate. Deep textural resonance. Very juicy. Vivid. Poised and balanced. Persistent. Broadens in all directions on the mid palate with a little help from an intake of air. A liquid pleasure bomb. Fresh and fruity on the long finish.
Points 96 TW
Cantine Giacomo Montresor
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020
Intense ruby red in colour. Red rose petals, liquorice, lime leaves, blood orange zest, distant asphalt and lead pencil, all account for the aromatic profile. Black cherry, blackcurrant, damson and candied orange peel. Dusty tannins vie with mellow acidity. Solid fruit core. Distant saline notes on the finish.
Points 93 TW
Montezovo
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020
Medium ruby red in colour. Red rose petals, violet, hyacinth and peony cover the floral aromatics. Red cherry, cranberry, pomegranate, liquorice, balsam, chocolate and white smoke. Cool entry, agile, balanced, great textural presence. Wave after wave of liquid pleasure. Well extracted. Pulsating energy. Tannins finely grained. Playful acidity. Wide and long on the close.
Points 95 TW
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine
Famiglia Pasqua
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020
Medium purple in colour. Subtle aromas of pale blue florals, orange peel, cherry and kumquat. Plum, raspberry, menthol infused herb nuances. Linear. Savoury. Vibrant acidity. Powerful. Juicy on the hauntingly long, long finish.
Points 93+ TW
Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOCG 2020
Medium purple in colour with pink undertones. Subtle aromas of pale blue, white and pink blossoms. Bing cherry, dewberry, redcurrant, plum, distant chocolate notes and salty liquorice. On the palate: luscious, classy and invigorating. Long fresh mouthfeel on the close.
Points 94 TW
Santa Sofia
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020
Intense ruby red in colour. Heady bouquet of red blossom florals, red berry fruits and distant balsam notes. Redcurrant, cranberry, blueberry, salty liquorice, sweet scented dark spice and citrus zest. Silky on the palate. Vibrant. Pulsating and fruity. Medium length on the close.
Points 91 TW
Roccolo Grassi
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020
Deep Purple in colour with pink highlights. Lifted bouquet of red florals, roast meat, sour cherry, damp earth and salty notes.Warm entry, agile, light in texture, layered complexity. Has plenty to say in its race with time. A little shy. Juicy. Medium weighted. Good length on the finish.
Points 93 TW
Secondo Marco
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020
Pale ruby red in colour. Lifted aromas of pink florals with violet, cherry, plum and a whiff of marigold.Red cherry, cranberry, salty liquorice, balsamic notes, distant chocolate. Sweet scented spice with orange peel. Balanced. Shows class and finesse. Savoury. Flirtatious. Long and wide finish.
Points 95+ TW
Acknowledgment:
I wish to extent my deep appreciation to the Consorzio per la Tutela Vini della Valpolicella through their President Christian Marchesini for their kind invitation to this year's event. A special thanks goes to Nicola Padovano who, with his team, organised an amazing event.
TW
© Tony Wood Italian Wine 2025
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