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TONY

WOOD

ITALIAN

WINE

Writer's pictureTony Wood

Barberani, Umbria

Founded in 1961 and totally adverse to using any chemicals, this winery produces thirteen labels, each showing naturalness and approachability whilst retaining a full expression of terroir.



Organic and vegan certificated, this estate follows a rigid philosophy of profound respect for nature and a natural and sustainable approach to agriculture. Using natural fertilisation methods, for example: burying the branches when pruning, utilising the ancient method of planting field beans particularly good on heavy soils because their deep roots not only are able to penetrate and break up the soil but to also fix nitrogen levels.


Their entirely uncompromising natural approach is the reason why brothers Niccolò and Bernardo Barberani are some of the most respected produces in Umbria.


The Barberani vineyards lie on hills overlooking Lake Corbara, a reservoir created across the River Tiber in the 1960’s, consisting of a dam basin (641 metre long, 30-40metres deep) which extends over 10/13 square kilometres.



The close proximity of the lake helps regulate the microclimate by preventing extreme variations in temperature allowing an equable climate for fruit ripeness.


Close to the ancient city of Orvieto, the estate covers 100 hectares, 55 of which are planted with vines.


The purity of the wines produced is clear evidence of Barberani's totally natural philosophy and their meticulous respect for the ecological balance of their estate.


White Orvieto is made up of five grape varieties composed primarily of Grechetto and Trebbiano and a blend of Malvasia, Drupeggio, Verdello. The most highly rated examples of white Orvieto have a high percentage of Grechetto.



Under Orvieto DOC regulations wines must contain 40%-60% Trebbiano, 15%-25% Verdello, and up to 20% of Grechetto, Canaiolo, Drupeggio and Malvasia.


Since the introduction of IGT classification Orvieto wine makers have the ability to produce non DOC wines.


Tasting notes


Barberani Grechetto IGT 2017

Straw yellow in colour, rich and fruity, rounded.

Points 91 TW


Barberani Castagnolo DOC 2017

A blend of mainly Grechetto,Trebbiano (Procanico), Chardonnay and Riesling Italico.

Bright straw yellow in colour, intense bouquet, fruity, white flower, mineral undertones, good structure.

Points 92 TW


Barberani Foresco Umbria IGT 2016

A Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend.

Red ruby in colour, full bodied, fruity aroma, intense, balanced and elegant.

Points 92 TW



Barberani Luigi e Giovanna 2014

Grechetto 95% Trebbiano Procanico 5% of which, 10% of which are attacked by noble rot; Botrytis Cinera. This wine is dedicated to Nicola and Bernardo’s parents. The Luigi and Giovanna vineyards are picked at different times to allow botrytis to develop then reunited before blending. Brilliant golden yellow in colour, ripe yellow stone fruits, citrus,  saffron, dried herbs, mineral tones. Smooth, long finish.

Points 92 TW



Barberani Polvento 2014

Sangiovese.

Intense ruby red in colour, dark red fruit, leather, sweet tobacco, silky, structured, balanced and concentrated. Long finish.

Points 93 TW



Barberani Calcaia Orvieto DOC Classico Superiore 2015*

Grechetto, Trebbbiano Procanico and Sauvignon Blanc.

Superiore Sweet Botrytis.

Bright golden yellow, apricot, candid orange peel, saffron and eastern spice.

mellow and soft. Persistent. A joy!

Points 94 TW


*This wine was founded in 1986 after a trail that lasted nearly a decade of collaboration between Dr. Luigi A.Barberani and Dr. Maurizio Castelli.

“Muffa Nobile” is caused by a thick fog in Autumn mornings enveloping the vineyards allowing a microscopic fungus “Botrytis Cinerea” to form thanks to the alternation between humidity in the morning and mild and windy weather in the afternoon. Instead of tanning harmfully this “Noble Rot” dehydrates the grapes concentrating sugars and acidity.





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