Brunello di Montalcino 2015: Has it peaked too early?

I have been thinking and talking about this vintage for ages, but now the time for serious wordage and explanation is upon us.

On Friday 21st February 2020 I tasted about 70/80 different labels of the BDM 2015 vintage in Montalcino.

As for the: “Has it peaked too early?" question, my explanation is simply we have not completed the 2015 discussion and I am often asked "how does it compare with 2016"?

That is one of the problems with this modern, fast, “need to know now” world where the answer is required before the question has a chance of being asked, with some slim chance of accuracy.

My friend and learned colleague James Suckling published his thoughts on BDM 2015 some months back, but when debating the 2015/2016 question he wisely decided to reserve his decision for another day.

So what is the real news on BDM 2015? Well, it is a good vintage: varied, difficult to get close to, with fine tannins and fresh acidity along with good aromatics.

Some producers made exceptional wines. Most made very good wines. Some produced wines that quite frankly “missed the boat!”

Is it better than 2010 I hear you ask? Not by a country mile!

If you listen to some of the winemakers, 2015 is “the vintage of a lifetime,” “the best I have ever made,” “ a fairytale vintage,” “the vintage of the century”…Well, I have heard it all before, but…just how many “vintages of a lifetime” can one have?

I believe BDM 2015 does NOT have the energy, or life expectancy of the BDM 2010 in general terms. I also believe Sangiovese does not act well with an irregular tannin/acidity balance.

As for long term ageing, my personal view is winemakers generally are so adept at making good to great wines in poor years there is no reason to hang on for decades to your bottles, unless of course you wish to pass the perfect time to consume them to see how the wine evolves when passed its best. I refer only to BDM with this viewpoint. That said, most of the great vintages will give good account of themselves twenty years after their vintage.

Some wineries decided to experiment with BDM 2015 and bottled a new single cru. These new labels are in most part very intriguing and capture the market’s interest.

BDM 2015 will benefit from at least two to three years more bottle age.

As for price release, most wineries have been quiet restrained with their pricing, and I for one, fully appreciate this sensible approach.That said, one or two have suffered from a rush of blood to the head!

Tasting Notes

Fuligni

Garnet in colour. Black cherry, blackberry, liquorice, forest floor. Plump and juicy. Tense tannins. Fresh acidity. Has not settled yet.

Points 94-96 TW

Giodo

Deep ruby red in colour. Fresh spring flower aromatics, red cherry, tobacco. Dense and sumptuous. Terrific persistence, finish goes on for miles. Needs time.

Points 97-98  TW

Il Marroneto

Pale ruby red in colour. Fresh red fruit, soft red liquorice, grilled herbs. Silky tannins.

Points 93-94 TW

Il Marroneto  Madonna delle Grazie

Ruby red in colour. Intense red cherry, kirsch, wild strawberry, cedar and violet aromatics. Beautifully crafted.

Points 96-98 TW

IL Poggione

Deep ruby red in colour. Morello cherry, plum, range of dried herb notes. Soft tannins.

Strange... but lacks acidity.

Points 92-93 TW

La Fornace

Deep ruby red in colour. A heady mixture of cherry, raspberry, redcurrant fruit, violet florals, liquorice, wet earth. Vibrant

Points 93-95 TW

La Gerla

Pale ruby red in colour. Red cherry, red fruits, refined aromatics, truffle and mushroom, dried sage. Little short on the back end.

Points 92-94 TW

La Magia

Bright ruby red in colour. Fresh red cherry, menthol. Slight tannic bite. Tree bark. Needs to fill out.

Points 92-94 TW

La Rasina

Dark ruby red in colour. Rich black cherry, blackberry, vanilla, cigar tobacco, eucalyptus. Full bodied, A hint of alcohol warmth.

Points 92-94 TW

Lisini

Ruby red in colour. Warm black fruit, liquorice. Vivid rich palate. Mellow finish.

Points 92-94 TW

Le Chiuse

Ruby red with purple undertones. Rich red cherry, wild strawberry. Freshness that gives suppleness. Youthful fresh tannins. Faint trace of clove. Energetic finish.

Points 93-95 TW

Mastrojanni

Rich ruby red in colour. Rich red fruits, blood orange. Youthful tannins. Blue flower aromatics. Tight but polished.

Points 93-95 TW

Mastrojanni Vigna Loreto

Bright garnet in colour. Fresh red cherry, orange peel. Great minerality. Savoury and linear. Toasted aftertaste.

Points 93-95 TW

Piaconnello Podere del Visciolo

Deep ruby red in colour. Intense fresh red fruits, liquorice, tree bark. Ultra fine tannins perfectly balanced with fresh acidity. Broad mid palate leading to long finish.

Points 94-96 TW

Poggio Antico

Deep ruby red in colour. Silky tannins integrated with fresh red fruit all held up with bright acidity and rapier minerality. Juicy mid palate. Lasting finish.

Points 94-95 TW

Poggio Antico Altero

Deep ruby red in colour. Red cherry, liquorice. Brooding and muscular, yet with stunning textural richness that coats the palate with decadence. Best ever from here.

Points 95-97 TW

Poggio di Sotto

Deep garnet in colour. Wild cherry, raspberry, sweet liquorice. Ample and generous on mid palate, sauve and delicate on finish. Super attractive wine.

Points 97-99 TW

Renieri

Bright ruby red in colour. Black cherry, blackcurrant, tar, slate, hint of spice. Flamboyant, robust, tense tannins. Needs 4/5 years of bottle age.

Points 94-96 TW

Salvioni La Cerbaiola

Bright ruby red in colour. Wonderful floral aromatics. Quality and intensity of fruit off the charts. Tannins that only leave a shadow of weight, clarity and precision defining the liquid, tons of energy, Elegant and graceful. A modern classic.

Points 99-100 TW

San Polino

Ruby red in colour. Red cherry, blackberry, refined floral aromatics. Balanced, elegant but with energy. Harmonious. great finish.

Points 93-95 TW

San Polino Helichrysum

A wine of sheer beauty. Silky tannins encircle fresh warm red cherries, layered intensity, consisting of orange zest, sweet tobacco, red berries. Delicate aromatics adding to overall finesse. Clarity and precision defining this wine from the beginning to the long finish.

Points 97-99 TW

San Polo

Medium ruby red in colour. Red cherry, orange peel, plum, tobacco. Earthy.

Points 92-94 TW

San Polo Podernovi

Ruby red in colour. Raspberry, redcurrant and plum fruits, grilled herbs, cinnamon. Superb transparency. Thick tannins but fruit quality and acidity will win out. Distinctive spiced aftertaste.

Points 94-96 TW

Sesta di Sopra

Deep ruby red in colour. Rich black fruits, liquorice, tar, vanilla, juicy, explosive, breath of flavour.Long energetic finish. Best ever from here.

Points (94-96) TW

Talenti

Ruby red in colour. Fresh red cherry, redcurrant, blood orange. Powerful tannins, refreshing acidity. Well extracted. Good showing.

Points 93-95 TW

Talenti Piero

Ruby red in colour with mauve undertones. Red cherry, black tea, liquorice. Vibrant, polished, tons of energy. Seamless. Saturates the palate with pure Sangiovese depth.

Points 97-99 TW

Tenute Silvio Nardi

Rich ruby red in colour. Subtle florals, soft red cherry, raspberry, liquorice, leather, forest floor. Tight yet polished.

Points 93-95 TW

Uccelliere

Deep ruby red in colour. Fresh soft red fruits, orange peel. Broad swathe of fresh tannins, little light on mid palate. Tends to fade on end.

Points 92-94 TW

Villa I Cipressi

Ruby red in colour. Sour cherry, redcurrant. Not happy with itself. Poor showing.

Points 86 TW

Altesino

Rich garnet in colour with amber tones. Fresh cherry, plum, blood orange, black tea. Savoury, saline infused energy. Tight mix. Needs time.

Points 93-95 TW

Altesino Montosoli

Deep ruby red in colour. Red cherry, pomegranate, black tea. Dense and sumptuous, plenty to say for itself. Bold structure. Chewy tannins but fresh acidity which in time, will balance the wine.

Points 94-96 TW

Caparzo

Pale ruby red in colour. Sweet red fruits, stewed plums, soft red liquorice, vanilla. Tight and polished. Decadent incense aromatics. Good showing.

Points 94-96 TW

Argiano

Bright ruby red in colour. Black and blue fruits, slate, smoke. Youthful tannins. Spicy earthy finish.

Points 93-95 TW

Argiano Vigna del Suolo

Ruby red in colour. Black cherry, pomegranate, plum, tar, tobacco, mint notes, orange peel. Terrific persistence. Class act.

Points 95-97 TW

Barbi Vigna del Fiore

Ruby red in colour with orange outline. Racy from the start, needs to put on some weight.

Points 90-92 TW

Baricci

Deep ruby red in colour. Rich cherry fruit, blood orange, faint chocolate. Tight tannins, terrific fresh acidity. Broad mid palate. Energetic long finish. Needs time.

Points 93-95 TW

Bellaria

Deep ruby red in colour. Fresh lush red cherry, spice. orange peel, tree bark. Great balance, well crafted. Textural richness.

Points 93-95 TW

Bellaria Assunto

Deep red with purple tones. Rich black and blue fruits, orange peel. Silky tannins, bitter chocolate, incense. Pin point balance. Explosive on mid palate. Persistent finish. All things in the right place.

Points 96-98 TW

Canalicchio Di Sopra

Ruby red in colour. Red cherry, pomegranate, orange peel, liquorice, great weight. Pleasant progression with fine tannins.

Points 94-96 TW

Canalicchio di Sopra La Casaccia

Stunning textural richness. A potent pot of red fruits surrounding a core of fresh acidity and fine tannins, that explode on the mid palate, dense and succulent. Captivating.

Points 99-100 TW Potentially a classic wine

Capanna

Deep ruby red in colour. Very tight not a shard of light. Red fruit. Youthful tense tannins. Graphite.

Points 92-95 TW

Carpineto

Bright ruby red in colour. Fruit mixture of sour cherry and blackberry, tar. Nervous style. Tight drying tannins, restrained palate.

Points 88-90 TW

Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova

Deep ruby red in colour with purple undertones. Fresh sweet red cherry, orange peel, aromatics of cedar and eucalyptus, black tea, earthy. Enveloping wine. Needs time.

Points 95-97 TW

Castiglion del Bosco

Bright red ruby in colour. Red cherry, pomegranate, raspberry, blood orange, cigar box. Thick but not aggressive tannins.

Points 92-94 TW

Castiglion del Bosco  Campo del Drago

Ruby red in colour with amber edge. Cherry, kirsch, orange peel. Muscular but agile. Chewy tannins. Broad finish.

Points 94-96 TW

Ciacci Piccolomini Pianrosso

Ruby red in colour. Red cherry, blood orange, roast meats. Restrained palate. Tense tannins. A little austere. One for the back of the cellar.

Points 92-94 TW

Collemattoni

Deep ruby red in colour. Black cherry, tar, liquorice, tree bark, incense. Not carrying much weight,

Points 88-90 TW

Cupano

Dark ruby red in colour. Fresh red cherry , kirsch, blood orange, violet aromatics, vanilla, tobacco. Good mid palate. Linear, long finish.

Points 93-95 TW

Fanti

Bright ruby red in colour. Sweet red cherry, raspberry, blood orange, soft red liquorice, cigar leaf, eastern spice. Textural nuance. Fresh clean finish.

Points 93-95 TW

Fanti Vallocchio

Dark ruby red in colour. Red cherry, blackberry, liquorice, tar. Stunning energy. Finely sculpted. Seamless and unwavering linearity.

Points 95-97 TW

I would like to take this opportunity to thank the Consorzio Vino Brunello di Montalcino for their kind invitation to taste the wines at the anteprima of Benvenuto Brunello 2020.

TW 2020