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TONY

WOOD

ITALIAN

WINE

Writer's pictureTony Wood

Fuligni, Montalcino

Giovanna Maria Fuligni made Montalcino her home at the beginning of the 19th century and started to produce wine in conjunction with her family’s estates in Scansano in the Maremma. The official licensed winery was founded in 1923. The first commercial vintage was produced in 1985.




The Fuligni estate is spread over 100 hectares on the eastern side of Montalcino, its vines covering 13 hectares are predominately found in Cottimelli at altitudes ranging from 380 to 450 metres ASL. The land here generally faces east, the soil is made up of marl and rock.


The latest vines have been planted facing southeast on land based on tufa and clay, the vines vary in density from 3,500 to 5,000 stems per hectare. The four separate vineyards: San Giovanni, Il Piano, Ginestreto and La Bardita, are are each harvested separately.



Although some of the vines are 35/40 years old, replanting the newest vines was necessary due to vine trunk disease, caused by fungal pathogens. The cause of this grapevine diseases is attributed (but not proven undisputedly) to machine grafting of the vines (adopted as a cost-cutting exercise) which has resulted in weaker vines than the hand grafted ones.

Various methods to stop the disease spreading include new pruning techniques of splitting the vine trunks in half to dry out the fungi and encourage the sprouting of a new vine branch from below the join. Some wine growers inject disinfectants into the trunks. In Fuligni’s case the vines are replaced. The disease is most prevalent during very dry weather, following a wet season.


Fuligni's Brunello production starts in 60hl stainless steel, temperature controlled vats

located in the ‘tinaia’ (the vinification cellar just a few metres from the vines). After fermentation begins, the wine spends a variable period of time on the skins immediately followed by malolactic fermentation.



In order to adequately set the anthocyanins, part of the Brunello begins ageing in 5hl and 7.5hl tonneaux. After some months, the wine is transferred into traditional 30hl Slovenian oak barrels housed in the antique cellar under the 18th century residence of the Fuligni family.



Today Fuligni is overseen by Maria Flora Fuligni and her nephew Roberto Guerrini with oenological consultant Paolo Vagaggini and agronomist and vineyard manager Federico Ricci.


In my opinion, the style of Fuligni's Brunello has changed from the 1990’s to today from a full bodied muscular wine to a lighter version showing finesse and delicacy.


Tasting Notes


Fuligni Ginestreto Rosso Di Montalcino 2017

Medium garnet red in colour. Spring flower aromatics, menthol, red cherry fruit,  crushed raspberry, mild balsamic notes. Savoury. Long finish. Elegant.

Points 91 TW


Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2014

Medium ruby red in colour with amber hue to edge. A little lean on entry. Showing fresh fruit, cherry, liquorice, earthy notes, slightly oaky.

Points 89 TW


Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2013

Deep ruby red in colour. The nose is a heady mixture of ripe red cherry, wild strawberry and blue flowers. Liquorice, new leather. Fine tannins, great fresh acidity. Wonderful texture. Long finish. Needs at least 5/8 years to fully develop.

Points 95 TW



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